2072 – Looking back to Stavronikita

The beautiful coastal path from Stavronikita to Pantocratoros starts with a view on the slated roofs of service buildings in front of the actual monastery. In my opinion this is a fascinating perspective. A manmade stone world with an ancient cypress as a natural contrast.

Looking back to Stavronikita. This part of the monopati is secluded. The path is covered by trees. From a birds eye perspective you wouldn’t notice a trail. The ground is humid and scattered with dead leaves. It is an extremely pleasant walk. The path rises and falls gently in a pleasant rhythm. The monopati follows mainly the coastal line. The rain had stopped and we dried up slowly. A branch delivered its collected water it had kept just until we passed by.

Only at a few spots the dense foliage opens up for a view. The summit of the Holy Mountain was still embraced by clouds. A long string of clouds rose slowly behind a hill.

A more detailed look at Stavronikita from Pantocratoros. The picture was shot with a tele lens. The enormous efforts to save the monastery are clearly visible. It was built on a rock formation that became unstable after the earthquake of 1905. We wrote about this before: “Heavy reinforcements are made just under the building in the rocks to withstand the elements. These structures were built because a series of earthquakes severely damaged the rock on which the monastery was erected. There were serious concerns about the stability of the structure. It could fall off the cliff. The heavy earthquake of 1905, 7,5 on the Richter scale, of which the epicentre lay close to Stavronikita under the sea, is described by Herman in this blog.”

An interesting leaflet about the restauration of the tower and the western wing is available via internet. This is a page from the book.

The mayor restauration on the foundation was executed by the Center for the Preservation of Athonite Heritage, a Greek government organisation, based in Thessaloniki. Via the Waybackmachine, an internet archive, I found some information on the restauration.

Bas Kamps

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2071 – When nature takes over….

The man of St. Chrysostomos with water he got from his neighbours (photo by B. Oreck)

When we were walking in Kapsala we met a friendly man in the rain. He explained that it was not easy to find the correct road to Stavronikita. He went to get some water in a nearby house.

The church of the kellion of St. John Chrysostomos

When he came back he showed where he lived; in an old Russian ruined church. The building was open, it had no windows. He was happy with just a matrass on the floor. He used to be working in the Greek army. Now he worked in the gardens and fields of Mt. Athos from time to time.

The stairs of the church
Inside the church (photo by B. Oreck)

Wim made in 2017 posts of the exterior and the interior of the ruined large Russian kellion of St. John Chrysostomos. Now there is a new inhabitant. He prefers the loneliness and the poor conditions there over a bed in one of the houses around. We didn’t dare to stay in the church for long, or go to the next floor, afraid that the walls or parts of the building would collaps. Wim climbed upstairs in 2017 and found the skulls of the previous Russian residents.

Building next to the church

Trees, scrub and creepers had taken over the place. This was beyond repair. Not even a sack full of Russian money could restore this settlement. The ruins, the powerful nature, the friendly loner, it made quit an impression on us.

The hole in the wall

Through a large hole in the wall of the settlement we continued our walk to Stavronikita ( see post 2070) after saying goodbye to our new friend.

Bas Kamps and Herman Voogd

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2070 – On our way to Stavronikita

Andreou

We found ourselves on the dirt road between skiti Agiou Andreou and Stavronikita. We hoped to spend the night in Stavronikita. The idea to sleep in a monastery without electric light enthralled us. But for the moment, the fog had changed into rain. The drops were getting bigger and bigger. We were prepared for that. But unfortunately I was unable to release the rain cover from my backpack.

Bas Kamps and his umbrella (photo by H. Voogd)

I tried to protect my dry goods with an umbrella. I failed, as I later discovered.

(After a summer break I will pick up the blog about our April 2019 pilgrimage. The last episode, ‘the Glory of Agiou Andreou’, can be found here.)

This was the last view of Andreou before we lingered down to the coast on a rather unexciting dirt road. Here there was not an ancient monopati leading to the Thracian sea.

Pantocratoros

The first view of Pantocratoros with its dominant donjon. We were still strolling in the rain.

Holy Mountain

Looking back to the Holy Mountain. A very active cloud system surrounded the invisible peak.  The buildings belong to the monastery of Filotheou, I guess. There was still some white winter memories hidden in the coolest and darkest crevasses and on northern slopes of the mountain.

Pantocratoros

A birds eye perspective on Pantocratoros and its arsanas. The monastic complex looks like one enormous defensive unity. On the top of the donjon we see some modern artefacts; solar panels and a heating installation.

The neatly combed fields are ready for the crops to leave the underground. Some of the bigger trees are still waiting for their leaves. 

Stavronikita

Arriving at Stavronikita. Ancient olive trees greeted us. The showers had passed but the cobbled stones were still shining. We were going to ask the archondaris if he had room in his guesthouse for four good humoured pilgrims who had walked from Karies, Koutloumousiou and Andreou in the mist and the rain. 

Stavronikita

Pilgrim Herman, with his rain protection on his head and a rain cover over his backpack, is approaching Stavronikita. The frog-green tractor awaits its next challenge. Behind the vehicle colourful boxes lay waiting to transport vegetables. The impressive aquaduct and its mirror image is just visible.

Stavronikita

In the monastery we learned that they were not able to give us hospitality; they were already fully booked. We should have booked way ahead in advance. They can only host a few pilgrims. We sat outside under the grape balcony admiring the ancient cypress and ate some energy bars out of our backpacks. 

Stavronikita

Before we left Stavronikíta we strolled in the surroundings. We walked towards the ossuary with its antique pillars. This perspective from the cemetery is very appealing. The arches of the old water supply are clearly visible. After this sightseeing we decided to walk further to Pantocratoros, where we had received hospitality on one of our earlier pilgrimages.

Read more about Stavronikita here and here. And some old and new pictures here. At last a beautiful watercolour of Stavronikita by Edward Lear.

Bas Kamps (photos and text)

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2069 – radio amateur monk Apollo passed away May 5th 2019, 64 years old

Monk Apollo from Dionysiou

In 1980 monk Apollo moved in Monastery of Docheiariou in Mount Athos. In spring 1986 his monastery had remained without telephone for over five months, something not unusual on Mount Athos. One of the monks was injured in his eye but they went to the Hospital after 2 days because of lack of communications. When Mr Georgiadis (SV2RE), an ophthalmology professor, heard the story, he recommended that somebody in the monastery become an amateur radio operator, in order to guarantee communication in case of emergency. So in 1988 Monk Apollo obtained his radio amateur license and the call SV2ASP. He needed 2 more years to get the license from Holy Council. Finally he was on the air for first time in 1990. He celebrated his 10 years on the air with the call SY2A in 2000 and he was trying to find some free time to be on the air when his monastic duties allowed him.

Read more about his live and career here and here.

Thanks to Martijn Reneman.

Dochiariou, with the 40 meter antenna in the garden behind the monastery

Wim Voogd, 27/8

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2068 – two old Athos maps and two (old) books

Sometimes beautiful treasures are not far away. Our fellow Athos pilgrim Jacques from Haarlem stumbled upon a second hand bookshop in Amsterdam, showing numerous Athos books in the window. When I visited the antiquarian bookshop last week the owner told me he had been able to buy almost 70 Athos-books from a collector who passed away, in many different languages, and also many in Greek. His shop can be reached in this link: antiquariaat Brinkman.

If you buy a book here, please mention my name.

Wolfgang von Löhneysen Heimat unter dem Himmel, Berg Athos, 1991 (Home under the sky, Mount Athos)

The first I bought is in German by Wolfgang von Löhneysen, published in 1991, 393 pages, with pictures in black and white. Below you’ll see a drawing kept in the Bibliothéque Nationale in Paris: “The drawing must be a template of a woodcut, which precedes the Greek Latin edition of the travel guide Johannes Komnenos as a cover image”. This (rather mystical) text accompanies the drawing, I’ll have to find out later what it might mean.

the Athos map 1991

In past months fellow pilgrim Gert Jan bought these fine maps on the internet as a present for me:

1628 – Griechenland met seine Landschaften und Eigenschaften: Basel, H. Munster/ H. Petri – colored

Here Athos is not shown as a separate peninsula: the whole of Chalkidiki is one piece of land under Adrianopolis. The next map is more accurate and dates from 1790:


Copper engraving from 1790 from Von Reilly,Frans Joachim Joseph: Die Landschaft Macedonien no. 17

Here a detail of Chalkidiki and Athos:

Meeresbucht von Istilla, Vatopedi, Lavra. Karyes and Berg Athos – 1790
1880 – Alexandre-Stanislas Neyrat: L’Athos

This is the second book I bought in the bookshop in Amsterdam: it is published in 1880 and its has ten very early pictures (héliogravures) and two “fac-simile” from Athos. It is in French and the complete title is: L’Athos: D’une excursion a la presqu’ile et a la montagne des moines.

no 1: Panteleimonos, at that time without the main church and the belfry.
detail from the last picture
The Diamoniterion signed by three chief abts
2. Karyes; no ruins at that time!
3. Skiti Andreou without the main church (build 20 years later) and the Athonias school
detail from the last picture
4. skiti Profitou Eliou: with its windmill and also without the (new) main church
detail from the last picture
5. Vatopedi and its arsanas: almost nothing changed here
6. Iviron – also no big changes here
7. Lavra: the treasure house is being build
detail from the last picture
8. Dionysiou and the mountain
9. Xeropotamou

Pictures nr 10 is from a church in Rumenia, not shown here.

Wim Voogd, 14-8-2019

Posted in 01 Lavra, 02 Vatopedi, 03 Iviron, 05 Dionysiou, 08 Xiropotamou, books, maps, Skiti Profitou Eliou | Tagged | 3 Comments

2067 – The garden pulley of Simonos Petras

Simonos Petras

The gardens are located on terraces below the monastery. Wooden ladders connect the gardens with each other.

Terrace gardens

gardens

The gardens from above. A garden worker is resting against the stone monastery wall. A monks is coming his way.

Vegetables are lifted by the pulley on the balcony next to the kitchen.

vegetables

The vegetables of today is a kind of wild spinache.

Herman Voogd

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2066 – Crossing the Profitou Eliou stream

Map Peter Howorth detail

In between the monastery of Pantocratoros and the Skiti of Profitou Eliou is a nice path (red and dotted line on the map) slightly uphill. It will take 30 minutes to get to the former Russian skiti.

Shed near Pantocratoros, Athos. Photo by Herman Voogd

In the low hanging clouds uphill lies the skiti of Profitou Eliou. The small building with the amphoras belongs to the Pantocratoros monastery.

Pantocratoros

It was clearly a wet day but the rain had stopped when we started the hike looking back at Pantocratoros.

the stream

Due to the rain the path was blocked by the stream. In normal conditions it was no problem to get to the other side without wet feet but now we had to walk back to look for a suitable crossing.

Finally a kind of “beaverdam” took us over the small river

Somewhat higher up the monopati no longer follows the stream and it is not that far anymore.

Road and path

At the end the path crosses the road.

Barry Oreck, Bas Kamps, Father Filemon and Jacques Poell

We reached the skiti and were warmly welcomed with water, coffee and Tsiporou by the very friendly guestmaster of the Skiti, Father Filemon, who allowed me to take a picture. At the end we walked the dirt road back to Pantocratoros, instead of the path to avoid the crossings over the stream.

Text and photo’s by Herman Voogd

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