Last time I told you we bought two icons from the “famous” Pachomaioi-brothers during our stay in their home near Karyes and that we left our backpacks in Dionysiou, where we were invited to stay the following days. So we had to find a place to sleep in Karyes and we decited not to go and look for a bed in a nearby monastery, but we booked a room in the “Karyes Intercontinental” (minus 3 stars***).

Hotel Karyes (with balcony !)- 1989

The main street in Karyes – 1989
Oke, the beds were lausy and the room was terrible, but that night in Karyes I’ll never forget. First of all: we could visit the Protaton-church without being disturbed by others. We just had the church for ourselves for an hour or so and we had a lot of time looking at all the magnificent fresco’s and icons.

Protaton – one day before Easter: see all the flowers surrounding an icon lying on the table – 1986

Protaton – 1986

One day before Easter the town of Karyes was allmost deserted. Only a couple of monks and workers were on the street, and of course, some lazy cats:

A young version of the auther sitting on a wall in Karyes – 1986
Slowly darkness began to fall and in Karyes it seemed as if time had stood still. A man with a staircase walked by and one for one he started illuminating the street lantarns. Bats were flying over. Everything was quiet and peacefull. This moment I will never forget and I was so intence enjoying the whole scene that I forgot to take a picture.
This year Karyes was crowded with people. New shops were opened, the old cafenion near the bakery was closed, the hotel (plus cafe) looked better and the street lantarns had modern energy-saving electric bulbs.

The old cafenion in Karyes – 1989

The new cafenion in Karyes – 2007

Black and white image of Karyes – 2007

A crumbling building in Karyes – 1989

Black and white image of Karyes – 2007

Protaton under a roof and the clocktower – 2007

Protaton – under the latest renovation they took away the ugly grey cement and you can see the original stones again ! – 2007

Next time more about Easter in Dionysiou.

Wim, 12/11